Posted 16 October 2010 - 04:57 PM
Posted 16 October 2010 - 07:14 PM
Posted 16 October 2010 - 07:22 PM
Posted 16 October 2010 - 10:35 PM
Posted 16 October 2010 - 10:42 PM
Posted 16 October 2010 - 11:34 PM
They are oiled canvas,cheap,and enough material
to do several bellows overhauls. Works great
If you don't want to use that naugahyde SP?
like the upholsters use also works real well.
Posted 17 October 2010 - 03:29 AM
When I was building puffers I just used a camo canvas that was fairly heavy. Check with Frank C I am sure he would tell you what he uses on the ones he builds, just about anything will work!
The "Beck" that dates back to the 1920's that Russ Ford has uses just plain white canvas, take the old one apart carefully to use for a pattern if you are going to do it yourself.
Posted 17 October 2010 - 06:53 AM
Posted 17 October 2010 - 09:14 PM
If you go thru Keene they'll probably want your right arm an left leg for a piece....just guessing as it so goes with manufacturers.
Enjoy the wap waper.
Posted 22 October 2010 - 04:01 PM
Well I finally got my drywasher today. The guy I got it from gave me some material to fix the bellows. The 12 Volt moter works great and the drywasher itself is in great shape. I looked at how the bellows was attached, and I am going to have to drill out lots of rivets to change it out. Do I need to seal the new bellows material to everything before I rivet it back together with something like silicon? Any ideas would help. Thanks
Posted 22 October 2010 - 09:02 PM
Posted 23 October 2010 - 07:52 PM
Posted 23 October 2010 - 09:29 PM
Just a thought.....
Also, check for leaks anywhere there is a seal. It could just be blowing out the side.
Patrick in Havasu.....
Posted 24 October 2010 - 03:12 AM
Do you have a dead air space below each riffile? Do you have the top riffle space 90% blocked from under the riffile tray with a thin sheet of plastic? Prevents wear through and saves wasted air on top riffile.
A couple of hand fulls is not enought to start the action, each riffile space most have some dirt over it.
When it is running properly it will look like a thin stream of water is running over the riffiles, it will have a "Hopping" motion with a certain amount of dirt going over each riffle on the up stroke and the dirt just laying there on the down stroke, Puff-Hop-Puff-Hop.
If you did not overlap the batten under the riffiles when you built it you may still be able to put a stripe of silacone below each riffine from the bottom creating a dead air space below the riffile, 1/2" is enough, I'll attach a drawing but I am no artist! If you have to add silacone use tape to mask the riffle on the bottom side and just put a stripe across with your finger!
I use a large plastic pan to catch the fines off the riffiles and some times re run it if it was at all damp or I over load it.
RPM,s, I like 90 to 95 to start but 80 is ok, More battery voltage more RPM,s , you will have to recharge more often the slower your RPMs are at starting.
Let me know if this helps or is not understandable!
Posted 24 October 2010 - 04:25 PM
Posted 24 October 2010 - 07:18 PM
Bring the whole drywasher up to the outing so we can take a look see.
Posted 24 October 2010 - 08:13 PM
Wish I could take it up for you to take a look at. Its about to make me crazy. Its a stock keene 12 volt but the guy said the bellows was all it needed. I know the new ones I put in arent leaking. I just repaced the flapper inside, the old rubber one was kinda hard and dry. So I made one out of a mouse pad. That helped about 20 percent but the dirt is just kinda bouncing there and not really blowing up. The stock steel riffle has cloth attached to it, and under that there is another screen (metal with lots of 1/8 inch holes) with cloth. It goes first then the riffles. Man I wish someone with one would post some pics of underneath the riffles and this other screen to see if mine is put together right. Thanks again to all who have been putting up with me.
Posted 25 October 2010 - 02:23 AM
Look at the metal piece with the holes, is it possible that you put it on backwards? It has to have that dead air space or the gold and black sand will blow right out.
Also a mouse pad is too thick and stiff, at Home Depot and Lowes they sell a 12"x12" peice of thin red rubber, I think they call it a gasket for plumbing, what ever ,thats the best for your flapper valve, leave enought around the edges that it don't bow under pressure
into the hole causing an air leak, when running it you should hear a slapping sound, a sort of a clanking sound as that rubber seals the hole, even without dirt it should close with a slap/clap sound, ditch the mouse pad!
Give me a PM with your phone # and I will call you today from work, give me a time, I am on MT time.
Can you shoot pictures of it? If nothing else call me and put it on your phone camera. Did you wash the cloth before you put it on?
That black cloth that Keene sells has lots of sizing (Starch) in it and I always wash it first.
As a matter of fact I use the back of shirts that I get from Goodwill, I like a really loose woven cotton that has been used and washed.
If you have to use new material get cotton Muslin a Walmart, its used as backing for curtains, wash it good to get the starch out and iron it to make it easier to attach.
Now originaly you where replacing the bellows, that you do want air tight.
Posted 25 October 2010 - 04:54 AM
Posted 27 October 2010 - 03:51 PM
Thanks for any pics.
Posted 27 October 2010 - 08:14 PM
Its probably something really basic and we all will feel dumb!
Posted 28 October 2010 - 05:15 PM
Posted 28 October 2010 - 08:49 PM
Think of the flapper as a check value so when the flapper lifts up has to be closest to the
riffles when the bellows are expanding the flapper lifts up to let in the air so when you compress the bellows the flapper goes flat to force air to the riffles.
hope this makes cents
Posted 29 October 2010 - 12:05 AM
Posted 29 October 2010 - 12:26 AM
Charlie's Ore House had a newer one for sale, and that is where I took the pictures. It is in Randsburg, CA.
Posted 29 October 2010 - 06:03 AM
Grubstake, Thank you very much for posting the pics,Hope you are in good health.
Sandtrap, That was cool of you to post these pics. I have been to Charlie's Ore House A few years ago. The pics help alot. My flapper should be in the next few days. I cant wait to try out my drywasher. Thanks again to all.
Posted 29 October 2010 - 11:01 PM
Now help me ! Airsteamed Justrite Pat Pend on top , Unite on bottom looks complete except for back of sparker missing, 1 little tiny ding in top and a spot of sorder.
looks like it would work! good yard sale find or not?
Posted 30 October 2010 - 06:01 AM
How is the dry washer going? Oh that's OK I know, PUFF_PUFF.
Posted 30 October 2010 - 06:35 AM
Posted 30 October 2010 - 11:56 AM
Thanks again to all for the help.
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